PMU Numbing 101: Pro Tips For Maximum Results

⏱ 3 Min Read

Best PMU numbing technique

How to get powerful numbing results and cut down your numbing time.

FIRST LETS UNDERSTAND What IS Topical Anaesthetic?

Topical anaesthetics are medications that are applied directly to the surface of the skin to numb a specific area. These are commonly used in permanent makeup procedures to reduce or eliminate pain or discomfort in the area being treated.

Topical anaesthetics comes in many variations and there are countless brands and formulas available. The different types of topical anaesthetics include:

  • Creams

  • Gels

  • Sprays

  • Ointments

The choice of the specific product depends on the procedure and the area being treated however, cosmetic tattoo procedure will typically use a cream or a gel.


Which Ingredients Do Numbing Creams Contain?

There are several anaesthetic agents usually used for topical numbing creams:

  • Lidocaine (also known as lignocaine)

  • Tetracaine

  • Prilocaine

  • Benzocaine

Out of these, lidocaine is by far the most common one, since it’s been proven to provide the most intense numbing sensation. However,

I highly recommend using a mix of 2 or more active ingredients to ensure the client responds.

Numbing creams may also contain vasoconstrictors – namely, epinephrine – which temporarily shrinks blood vessels and is often found in secondary numbing formulas.

Adding epinephrine can be helpful during PMU to constricts blood flow to the area, slightly prolonging the numbing.


How Does PMU Numbing Work?

When they are applied on the skin, anaesthetics creams and gels get absorbed and block the nerve endings from sending signals to the brain.

This causes a numbing sensation. As a result, your client will not feel pain, although they will still feel the pressure of a tool penetrating the skin.

The numbing effect of a topical anaesthetic is usually temporary and can last for a relatively short duration depending on the specific medication used.

Anaesthetics also close off the capillaries which means the more you use them the more resistance you will experience to the tattoo absorption. Eventually, too much numbing will act as a tattoo block and affect the healing results.

What Types of topic anaesthetics are there?

There are 2 types of tattoo numbing cream which are commonly used during permanent makeup treatments:

  • Primary numbing – applied to unbroken skin (also called pre-numbing)

  • Secondary numbing – applied to the skin once it’s been broken.

Primary Numbing

Primary numbing usually comes in a cream consistency, so it’s creamy and relatively thick.

Primary numbing is used for the so-called pre-numbing. The cream is applied before the skin is broken (penetrated) and this ensures there’s no pain when the initial marks are made.

With pre-numbing, there is no direct pathway for the active ingredients to reach the nerve ending which means that the numbing effect is limited.

The effects of pre-numbing often wear off at some point during a PMU treatment, or they’re insufficient to begin with. That’s why it’s a common practice for PMU artists to use secondary numbing at some point during the procedure.

Alternatively, artists skip this step and go straight to secondary numbing on broken skin.


Secondary Numbing

Secondary numbing usually comes in the consistency of a gel or a liquid, which allows for more effective skin penetration.

Secondary numbing can be used once the skin has been broken. Active ingredients are able to effectively reach the nerve endings, since there is a direct pathway. 

The numbing sensation achieved is more intense, and can potentially last longer.


How Long Does PMU Numbing Take?

Primary numbing takes a relatively long time to take effect, approximately 30-45 minutes.  Secondary numbing works very fast, approximately 1-2 minutes however some clients may take longer to respond.


How to Apply Numbing?

How to apply Primary Anaesthetics

  • The area is cleaned with a disinfecting cleanser. Skin needs to be free of all makeup and product residues, as well as sebum – if there’s any greasy/oily residue, the anaesthetic cream won’t be absorbed sufficiently and evenly.

  • Use an applicator to apply a thick layer of cream is applied evenly on the area. Keep the treated contained to avoid unnecessary exposure to anaesthetic cream.

  • The cream is left on for 30 minutes, or as long as the instructions on it say. Some clients may need longer, but it’s not advised to leave the cream on for longer than the instructions say.

  • The area can be occluded with plastic film.

  • Remove the cream using a cleansing wipe

  • If needed, secondary numbing can be reapplied during the procedure.


I personally avoid using primary numbing agents because prolonged exposure to the skin can lead to adverse effects.


How to apply Secondary Anaesthetics

  • After the skin is broken, use an applicator to apply a small amount of the secondary anaesthetic over the penetrated area.

  • Covering with a plastic film is not required

  • Leave for 2-3 minutes

  • Remove the cream using a cleansing wipe


Applying stronger anaesthetics too often during the procedure makes the skin rubbery. Use it 1-2 times max.


2 Minute Pre-Numb Hack

Extra numbing tip

If you’ve ever wondered how artists manage to take pitch-perfect after photos without any redness around the results, the answer is secondary numbing. After you’ve finished the treatment, apply a layer of secondary numbing with epinephrine. This will minimize blood flow into the area and create a white halo around the results, letting them stand out.

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